Contact Us

Call, email, or come by the shop and meet the crew.

Ask questions. See boats being restored.  View our inventory of gorgeous, fully-restored wooden boats. Quotes are always free. No job is too big or too small.

Snake Mountain Boatworks LLC
7080 Weybridge Rd
Weybridge, VT 05753
Phone: 802.734.1019
Fax: 802.545.2269
Email: [email protected]

6 Replies to “Contact Us”

  1. First of all, thank you for your wonderful videos. They are very informative! I am a newbie to wooden boats and trying to find my way. My boat is a 1954 20ft. Resorter. It was refinished by the owner inside and out approx. 8 yrs. ago. I had no business buying the boat from an economic aspect, but I spent all my summers of a lake and always dreamed of owning one so when a customer offered to sell me the boat and finance it at no interest I jumped in. Little did I know what I was getting into.!!!!
    First discovery, improperly winterized and oil cooler froze and cracked open. . I have replaced that.
    The bottom of the boat is all original and I have been working on my back under the trailer cutting and scraping the caulk out, some had fallen out. I have approx. 70% of the caulk out and I think the rest is still good so I am going to go to step 2. which is sanding the bottom with an orbital sander. The caulk is bright life. I am not sure what grade of sand paper to use I am thinking 120 grade??? The paint is about 70% still good , so I thought I would sand lightly and then prime all bare spots, then re caulk with bright life and then paint the complete bottom with the bronze bottom paint.
    In your videos you use a CEPS products. Do I need to use this product? Might be hard to apply laying on my back upside down?
    I forgot to mention that the bottom screws have no caulk in them. Apparently, they have never been sealed as the countersinks are all open.
    Do I need to buy that 3M sealer you used in the video to seal all the countersinks. Seems weird that they have never been sealed???
    Any advise you can give is greatly appreciated. I am hoping to have the boat operational this summer on the lakes of northern Wisconsin. I live in St. Louis but vacation in Wisconsin on the Chain of Lakes in Eagle River, WI.

    1. Ouch!~ The Resorter has a richly-earned reputation as a leaker. Boat Life caulk is just about the worst material for this purpose. ALL of it must be removed and then all the sams must be filled and faired smooth using Jamestown Distributors’ TotalBoat Thixo Flex.
      But that is after all paint is removed and all wood has been sealed with three full coats of CPES.
      Never, ever, ever use a random orbit sander on a wood boat lest you want to fight a sea of cross-grain scratches.
      Sanding bottoms begins with 60 grit and progress to 80 grit – no finer.
      Yes, all countersinks must be filled and faired with 3M Marine Premium Filler. That the countersinks are empty signals all sorts of trouble with fasteners, failing wood and more.

      Sorry, but I do not have time to write the book you need me to write. Please click on the “How-To” tab on my Web site. You will find a treasure trove of information there.

    1. Never ever, ever, ever shrink wrap a wooden boat! To do so is to go on a fool’s errand, unless you enjoy dealing with all the burnt varnish and paint, and worse, the gorilla with the heat gun will assault your boat with.

  2. TALKED TO YOU ON THE PHONE YESTERDAY REGARDING MY 1955 MERCURY BOAT AND HOW YOU MADE YELLOW CAULK. HAVING PROBLEMS SENDING YOU PHOTOS TO YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS. PLEASE ADVISE

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