1953 22-Foot Shepherd Model 110-S Runabout

For Sale: 1953 shepherd m110s dual quad four v drive hemi

Original 1953 Chrysler M45S 331 Dual Quad Four V-Drive Hemi Powered Best of Show July 2018 Lake Champlain ACBS Antique and Classic Wood Boat Show

Offered at 87,500

Voodoo Child is one of only two M45S 331-Hemi-Dual-Quad Four-V-Drive-Powered 22-foot, Model 110-S runabouts built by the Shepherd Boat Company in 1953. Her engine plate reads M45S–HRF– 1066V. The engine is stamped 7-6-53.

Chrysler had not yet released this engine for general sales, but agreed to supply two of them to Shepherd.

She was originally outfitted with the rare mid-cockpit third seat.

That said, whoever owns her owns a boat that only one other person in the universe can own. She is one of two. Her sister vessel has survived, but we understand she is in poor condition.

Save for a replaced garboard and several Dutchman repairs, Voodoo Child, by contrast, triumphed her May 2017 marine survey, with the surveyor declaring she is in Bristol Condition throughout.She confirmed his assessment in July

2018 when she won Best of Show at the Lake Champlain ACBS Antique and Classic Wood Boat Show.

Her original engine and transmission were completely disassembled, ported, polished, balanced and completely rebuilt by Robert Henkel, Peter Henkel Inc., Marine City, MI.

The boat is completely original, with nary a single piece of wood replaced, save for the inner skin of her True 5200 bottom and one section of garboard. Her molded plate glass windshield panels are original. Dutchman repairs to her stem and several small spots on her topsides were executed during her preservation.

Voodoo Child has gone through a comprehensive structural and cosmetic preservation:

  1. Bottom – True 5200 bottom installed
    a. Released, stripped original mahogany planking to bare wood and sealed with three
    coats of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)
    b. Released inner skin
    c. Below-waterline framing stripped to bare wood, sealed with three coats of CPES and
    painted with three coats of Pettit Bilge Paint
    d. Installed new inner skin of 1/8” Aquatek Marine Plywood, sealed with three coats of
    CPES and bedded in 3M5200
    e. Installed original planks bedded in 3M5200, and sealed with three more coats of CPES
    f. Applied five coats, alternating between gray and white, of Interlux 2000E Two-Part
    Primer – barrier coat
    g. Applied three coats of Pettit Hard Racing Bronze Enamel
  2. Topsides, transom, decks, ceiling and covering boards
    a. Stripped to bare wood, sanded fair, stained, sealed with three coats of CPES
    b. Varnished (24 coats) with Interlux Perfection Two-Part Varnish
    c. Varnish allowed to cure for 30 days and then buffed and
    d. Mahogany and yellow Sikaflex payed into deck and covering board seams to conform to
    original specifications
  3. Hardware
    a. The cutwater and hardware were restored and plated to show chrome standard by
    Mickey Dupuis, Custom Metal Restoration, Holyoke, MA
    b. Stainless rub rails were restored and polished by George Beer, American Metal Polishing
    in Shrewsbury, MA
  4. Gauge panel – restored mechanically and cosmetically by Kocian Instruments in MN
  5. Upholstery – restored to exactly match the original by Mark’s Upholstery, Middlebury, VT
  6. Floor
    a. Released, stripped bare, sealed with three coats CPES
    b. Marmolean the matches the original precisely installed
  7. Steering wheel – restored to original specifications by Pear Craft Steering Wheels, Rowville,
    Australia
  8. Gas tank – new stainless steel tank fabricated by RAYCO
  9. Safety equipment installed
    a. Fireboy MA2-150-227 Automatic Discharge Clean Agent Extinguishing System
    b. Fireboy MIR-1 Gasoline Fume Detector
    10. She rides on a custom-built, titled, 2016, tandem-axle, aluminum Sea Lion trailer

Voodoo Child Engine Test and Post-preservation videos

  1. Hemi Engine Test: https://youtu.be/xL8SinMeiQ8
  2. Debut: https://youtu.be/LemJFKlGgVg
  3. Sea Trial: https://youtu.be/A9PT66ZEYno

 

1953 Shepherd Runabout: How to Apply Final Coat of Varnish

1953 shepherd runabout final varnish

Yes, she is Voodoo Child, and if all goes well this fall and winter, you can see her in Tavares, FL, at the Sunnyland ACBS show, March 24-26, next spring.

John and RJ are making one final pass hand sanding to a snow field using 400 grit paper. The goal is an absolutely dirt-free, super flat surface, in preparation for applying the 20th and final coat of varnish.

We had her name applied following the 16th coat, to which four more coats have been applied. I am well aware that this issue is similar to asking five economists’ forecast for the economy and receiving at least seven conflicting replies. However, my goal is to provide some UV protection to the vinyl, while also delivering an identically glossy presentation across the transom.

We will allow the varnish to cure until early next week, at which time we will install the dual quad four, 331 cubic inch, V-drive Chrysler Marine Hemi and its drive line. The gauge cluster and the steering, throttle and shifting systems will be installed as well. Add a couple of fender cleats and we should be good to go.

Go where? To splash in Lake Champlain, since, before I can make a final commitment to Sunnyland, I must know she’s ready to romp.

After she triumphs over her sea trial, Voodoo Child will sit for 30 days during which time the varnish will finish curing, or at least have cured sufficiently to support the polishing process that completes her preservation.

Finally, we will put her back together and banish her to storage until March, 2017, when we will tow her south, away from a still-frozen Lake Champlain and equally frozen Vermont.

…Just cannot wait ….

1946 Chris Craft U22 Dutchman Next Steps

1946 chris craft u22 dutchman repair

Following this morning’s video update on the Dutchman repairs John is executing on the port topsides of the 1946 Chris-Craft Brightside U22, he reached for a heavy, 1-inch chisel and began shaving each repair and its associated TotalBoat Thixo Wood 2.0 two-part squeeze-out until it was fair with the topside planking.

He then ensured there will be zero voids in the seam around each Dutchman.

John release the bungs using a Rota Broach, which increased the diameter of several countersinks, so, rather than using Gorilla Glue, which is cures blonde, he used the same tinted Thixo Wood 2.0 as the adhesive.

He will shave the bungs fair using a Japanese cabinet makers saw, at which time the port topsides will be ready for final longboard sanding.

Once he has completed Dutchman repairs on starboard and sanded it fair, we will flip her over and strip the decks, covering boards et al, sand these surfaces fair and be ready for bleach.

Progress is a beautiful thing for sure!

1957 Lyman Runabout How to Mock Up Helm Station Seating

1957 lyman runabout helm station seating mockup

Our 1957 23’ Lyman Runabout’s owners asked us to replace the unworkable, basic helm station seating and storage she was originally fitted out with in Sandusky, OH, with the optional center pass-through alternative.

It will offer a flat floor from the engine box to the firewall, two storage lockers, one behind each “bucket” seat, and additional storage beneath them.

Where to begin? Fortunately the two seating configurations share interior seating pedestals. John began there, shaping and fitting each seat and locker, including the shelves within and the door he will fabricate and install. That door will be fitted out with the traditional Lyman anchor cutout.

John’s ability to imagine and then translate his ideas into a concrete, three-dimensional reality is at least inspiring, if not just a bit intimidating!

1957 Lyman Runabout: How to Fabricate and Install Ceilings

1957 lyman runabout how to fabricate ceilings

Ceilings – hull-side mahogany planking – and helm seating with a center pass-through and storage lockers fixed to the aft side of the forward seatbacks were available options on the 1957 23-foot Lyman Runabouts.

Her original owners opted for the stripped-down configuration, no ceilings and basic seating. The latter included a wide, solid seatback centered in the helm station with two short hinged wings at each end.

Her owners are opting for the upgrades, including a pair of lockers, complete with silhouetted anchors in the doors. Even better, once finished, our optional seating configuration will include a flat floor from stern to firewall, and a small step-up to each helm station seat.

We will fabricate and install the ceilings and mock-up the seating and lockers while her owners are on the east coast. Presenting our concept to them in person helps us reach a joint decision, which must translate into a superior results for all.

1959 Chris Craft 17′ Sportsman Engine Install Alignment is Cricital!!!

1959 chris craft sportsman engine install align

Frustration dominates the shop this afternoon. Why? Whoever last stuffed this 283 into her bilge failed to align the engine and driveline properly, or even at all.

As is clearly evident in the video, we now understand why her original prop shaft was so badly scored and had actual, almost inch-wide grooves worn into it. The shaft log is worn completely out of round as well.

The shaft log can be used, but the prop shaft will be replaced with a stainless one.

You simply cannot just drop the engine onto its mounting wedges, crank down the mounting bolts and then bolt the mating faces of the transmission and prop shaft couplers together with a long ratchet handle. Yes, you can force – distort – them until they appear to mate by reefing on the coupler bolts.

But all you have really accomplished is initiating destruction of the strut bushing, the prop shaft, and the shaft log, while also visiting potentially high-wear forces onto the transmission and engine.

Once properly aligned, and before any bolting begins, alignment is a hands-only process, with the wedges being tapped this way and that, and the engine being teased laterally back and forth until it is impossible to insert a 4 mm feeler gauge between the coupler plate faces when the latter are held in place by hand.

Repeat all the way around 360 degrees while holding the plates in place. If the feeler gauge can be inserted anywhere, the engine is not properly aligned.

Spin the prop shaft and its coupler. When correctly aligned, inserting that gauge remains impossible.

That the original prop shaft was polished along the section passing through the shaft bore as well tells us the latter was bored slightly too small, so we cleaned it out using a Forstner bit on the drilling shaft John fabricated to open the bore until the prop runs without touching any wood once the engine is aligned.

Yes, alignment is a slow and at times incredibly frustrating process, but oh is executing it properly critical to achieving rated horsepower output as well as to the long run viability of your engine and driveline.

John, who spent decades building high-performance engines for mud racers, knows of what he speaks on this front.

1957 Lyman Runabout Bleach & Stain Part II

1957 lyman runabout bleach stain

Here is Part II of the crew blasting through the bleach-stain milestones as we apply Wood Kote Products Jel’d Wood Stain on our 1957 23-foot Old Style Lyman Runabout.

Part I’s narrative focused on the how, why and advantages of jel’d over filler stain in these applications. Yes, it is far easier to apply and delivers an incredibly uniform color. It, goes an incredibly long way; we used about 12 ounces to stain everything we stained today. But it is not a filler stain, which translates into a surface that retains most of its cross-sectional declivities – hills and valleys – post staining, especially compared to a filler stain, which is designed, well, to fill these selfsame valleys.

Bottom line even following three full coats of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, filling these valleys and thereby achieving the truly flat surface we thirst for requires at least 3-5 additional coats of varnish.

We are not ready to jettison our Interlux Interstain Wood Filler Stain yet, but the ease with which we achieved an absolutely uniform color across all these surfaces makes it truly difficult to hide the Wood Kote in a deep corner of a dark cabinet!

1957 Lyman Runabout: Bleach & Stain Part I

1957 lyman runabout bleach stain

Our 1957 23-foot Lyman Runabout conservation project blasted through two milestones today. We bleached her decks covering boards, toe rails, king planks and helm station bulkhead earlier this week. Today we stained all of the same surfaces and components.

We have long standardized on Interlux Interstain Wood Filler Stain, but have recently been seeing dramatic and superior results using Wood Kote Products Inc.’s Jel’d stains – dark and red mahogany mixed in equal proportions for our Lyman products, and a bit more red relative to dark mahogany for Chris-Craft.

Jel’d stain is not a filler stain and it is not meant to be applied and let sit until it flashes. Instead, it is applied in a circular motion using a terrycloth or old T-shirt rag and then wiped – not scrubbed – off immediately with strokes that follow the grain.

The uniformity of the result is dramatic and easily attained compared to the sweat and blood required to achieve a similar result with a filler stain.

One of the advantages of jel’d over filler stain is that those nasty, light “Oops!!” events we all experience when sanding too aggressively after the first few coats of varnish are easily repaired with a rag and a bit of the jel’d stain. That offending light spot or area disappears, at least in our experience with it thus far.

Part II follows John and RJ as they stain the balance of these surfaces.

1946 Chris Craft Brightside U22 5200 Bottom Patterning

1946 chris craft brightside 5200 bottom patterning

OK, we’ve received a myriad of questions about how, once the hull is ready, we go from 4’ x 8’ sheets of Aquatek Marine Plywood to the inner skin of our True 5200 bottoms. John shares his “tricks of the trade” in this clip.

Once John has fabricated all of the pattern pieces for one face of the bottom, tension builds. If we have done our work well and the hull is true stem to stern and port to starboard, once flipped to the other face, the panels will fit perfectly.

Today they fit within 1/16 – 1/8 inch, which is excellent, given that we began with a corkscrewed, hogged hull. Phew!

Once we have fabricated all of the component pieces, which we dry screw in place so we can ensure an absolutely perfect fit, we release them and begin prepping them for installation.

Each sheet will receive 3 heavy coats of Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES). [Yes, as Danenberg prescribes, the second coat is applied immediately following the first coat. We then wait 24-48 hours to apply the third coat and give it 48 hours to cure.

Once they are sealed, the inner surfaces will receive a heavy coat of Sandusky Paint Company Chris-Craft Red Bilge Paint, and we will begin installing the skin, piece by piece, heavily bedded in 3M5200.

Before the plywood begins going down, however, we will ensure that all mating frame surfaces have received one light coat of the same bilge pain – again following Danenberg, By this time next week, plywood should have replaced construction paper.

Happy Saint Patrick’s Day!

Ding & Dent Repair Using TotalBoat Thixo Wood

dent repair totalboat thixo wood

TotalBoat Thixo Wood 2.0 is the current and much, much improved generation of Jamestown Distributor’s wood-colored thickened epoxy adhesive that has a rich, dark brown finish, blends well with many different woods.

We have achieved even closer color matches in our conservation projects by mixing small amounts of the same Interlux Interstain being used in each project as we prepare each batch. For example removing countersink bungs is absolutely not an exact science. Not matter how careful we are, all too often a bit of the countersink edges comes out with the bung leaving a ragged edge behind. If Gorilla or other waterproof wood adhesive is used when inserting new bungs, those ragged edges, even if just slightly ragged, leave a light circular glue line behind. Glue simply will not take stain. (We did some testing trying to mix a bit of stain with the glue, but the results were worse than awful. Ever tried to mix oil and water? Now you know what happens when you try to get Gorilla or other wood glues to mix with stain.)

Making Dutchman patches invisible present similar challenges. Left behind all too often are the hated light glue lines.

With Thixo Wood 2.0 and a bit of stain, our bungs and Dutchman repairs are almost invisible. We’ve had similarly positive results wherever gluing wood or filling gaps is required. Uncertain and hugely difficult dispensing bedeviled the original formulation until we began sitting tubes in front of the pellet stoves that heat the shop.

Even then we could not be confident that the required 2:1 ratio would be dispensed, and only knew for sure that it was not 24 hours later when the material was still soft to the touch.

Happily Jamestown has improved the formula. Thixo 2.0 dispenses in the correct proportions reliably, and, while heating it a bit helps, it is markedly easier to dispense from a standard caulk gun—even in cooler conditions.

Yes, some reviewers have commented that it is a bit pricey, but in my world, rarely do price and cost vary together. What will it cost you to remove those bungs and Dutchmen, and the halos they sport if you attempt executing such repairs with wood glue? Viewed within this context, Thixo Wood is a bargain.